7 Lesser-Known Traditional Costumes of Vietnam

Speaking of Vietnamese traditional costume, Ao Dai is the most famous one. But as a country with a long and rich history like Vietnam, there’s even more. Throughout different historical periods, Vietnam has developed various unique garments – each carrying meaningful stories adapted to its time while preserving the beauty and cultural soul of Vietnam. Let’s explore with My VietNam Tours some iconic costumes that hold cultural symbolism and historical value, enriching the image of Vietnam’s cultural beauty alongside the Áo Dài!

Áo Tứ Thân – The Elegance of Northern Women

Áo Tứ Thân traditinonal. Photo by: daioanketvn

Dating back centuries, Áo Tứ Thân is one of Vietnam’s oldest traditional outfits, once worn by women in the Red River Delta. True to its name, it’s made of four separate panels: two in the front and two in the back. The back panels are sewn together, while the front ones remain open and are tied together using a sash or belt, since the top has no buttons. This sash, often in a striking color like green, adds a soft contrast and visual charm.

It’s usually worn over a delicate inner bodice called áo yếm, paired with a wide black skirt known as váy đụp, and finished off with a traditional headscarf called khăn mỏ quạ. The outer layer is often brightly colored such as lotus pink, jade green, or red, to stand out against the more muted inner layers.

More than just clothing, Áo Tứ Thân reflects the quiet strength and elegance of Vietnamese women. It brings to mind images of mothers and sisters in the rice fields, or singing Quan họ folk songs during village festivals. Today, it’s still proudly worn in cultural performances, honoring the heritage and spirit of the North.

Áo Tứ Thân in Vietnam “Tấm Cám – Chuyện Chưa Kể” Movie.

Vietnamese Singer Hòa Minzy worn Áo Tứ Thân in her latest MV “Bắc Bling”.

Children wear Ao Tu Than in cultural performances. Photo by: vietnamplus

Áo Yếm – The Subtle Charm of the Inner Garment

Áo Yếm is a traditional inner garment for Vietnamese women, worn underneath Áo Tứ Thân, Áo Cánh, or Áo Bà Ba. Although it is an undergarment, Áo Yếm possesses a unique beauty, both modest and delicately sensual.

The yếm makes women both discrete and subtly sexy Photo by: nghean24h

Áo Yếm is a square or trapezoid-shaped piece of fabric with two straps tied behind the neck and two others tied around the waist. It covers the chest down to the navel while leaving the back and armpits exposed. There are many styles of yếm, such as the V-neck yếm (cổ xây), swallow-wing collar yếm (cánh nhạn), split collar yếm (cổ xẻ), and bordered collar yếm (cổ viền).

Often made from silk, satin, Áo Yếm colors can be varied, ranging from basic colors like white and black to vibrant hues such as peach pink or jade green. The “yếm đào” (pink yếm) is a familiar image in folk culture.

The “yếm đào” (pink yếm) is a familiar image in folk culture.

More than underwear, it symbolizes the inner beauty and quiet grace of Vietnamese women. It conveys modesty while radiating natural charm and has inspired many literary and artistic works. In many contexts, Áo Yếm stands as a symbol of the pure, gentle beauty of Vietnamese girls of the past. Today, it has been modernized by many local brands and worn as an elegant outer top or mixed into Áo Dài collar.

Graceful figure with a modern ao dai with a yem collar. Photo by: baothanhnien

Áo Chàm – The Indigo Identity of Vietnam’s Northwest Highlands

Áo Chàm are gradually being forgotten due to time and complicated manufacturing processes.

Photo by: bovanhoathethaovadulich

Áo Chàm is the traditional attire worn by several ethnic minority groups in Vietnam’s northern highlands, particularly the Tày, Nùng, and Thái communities. Its name is derived from the chàm plant, a native highland species used to create the deep indigo dye that defines this garment.

Chàm Plant is used not only to dye fabric but also as a traditional medicine.

The rich indigo color is the most distinctive feature of áo chàm. Naturally durable and fade-resistant, this shade reflects a quiet, earthy beauty and symbolizes the close connection between highland communities and the natural world. The fabric is traditionally handwoven and dyed through labor-intensive methods, passed down through generations and requiring great patience and expertise. 

Áo Chàm Nung ethnic group. Photo by: baotintucvn

Unlike many other ethnic garments, áo chàm tends to favor simplicity over ornate detailing. Men’s styles often include a side or chest slit with handwoven buttons, while women typically layer a shorter undershirt beneath a longer outer piece, paired with skirts or trousers. Depending on the ethnic group, the outfit is often complemented by traditional accessories, such as the khăn piêu headscarf of the Thai people.

Áo Chàm embodies resilience, harmony with nature, and the self-reliant spirit of Vietnam’s upland cultures. The enduring indigo color represents strength and cultural continuity. Frequently mentioned in poetry and folk songs, áo chàm evokes images of ethnic unity, modesty, and the grounded beauty of northern Vietnam.

Yet, in the face of modernization, áo chàm is at risk of fading into the past. Its intricate production process, once a common tradition, is becoming increasingly rare as modern lifestyles and fast fashion take hold.

Traditional Áo Chàm of Tay, Nung, Thai people with a modern touch. Photo by: vnexpress

Áo Nhật Bình – A Symbol of Royal Elegance in Vietnam’s Imperial Court

Ao Nhat Binh is decorated with patterns according to the wearer’s status. Photo by: marc

The “Áo Nhật Bình” was the formal court attire of noblewomen, princesses, and royal concubines during the Nguyễn dynasty. Its name, meaning “sun and peace,” refers to the distinctive rectangular panel created by the garment’s straight, wide collar, one of its most iconic features.

Flowing and loose-fitting with long sleeves, this costume was traditionally made from luxurious silk and adorned with elaborate embroidery. Common motifs included dragons, phoenixes, clouds, and waves, each symbolizing power, harmony, and prosperity. These designs were often crafted in metallic threads or vibrant colors, arranged in perfect symmetry to reflect royal aesthetics.

A closer look into the delicate symbols in Áo Nhật Bình.

Colors and details varied by rank: the Empress Dowager typically wore yellow, princesses donned red, while concubines wore hues like blue or purple. The áo Nhật Bình not only reflected status but also embodied grace, dignity, and the refined beauty of imperial women.

Today, this regal garment is being revived in traditional weddings, festivals, and heritage events, offering a glimpse into the splendor and solemnity of Vietnam’s royal past.

Nhat Binh shirts are increasingly popular. Photo by: Cotranghoangcung

Nhat Binh shirts in wedding dress Photo by:vietnamnet

Áo Giao Lĩnh – The Elegant Garment of the Early Le Dynasty

Giao Linh costume – Le Dynasty. Photo by: yvancac

Áo Giao Lĩnh is a traditional Vietnamese long robe with a crossed collar, most prominent during the early Lê dynasty. Its design bears similarities to historical garments from China and North Korea, reflecting regional influences of the time.

The robe features a rounded or overlapping collar, wide sleeves, and a flowing silhouette, typically worn with long pants or skirts. The two front panels crossover and are secured with a fabric belt. Traditionally made from silk, hemp, or other natural materials, Áo Giao Lĩnh embodies both comfort and grace.

More than just clothing, Áo Giao Lĩnh represents the elegance and sense of freedom in ancient Vietnamese fashion. Worn by commoners, scholars, and nobles alike, this garment is experiencing a meaningful revival, adding depth and richness to Vietnam’s traditional costume heritage.

Ao Giao Linh – The Ancient And Most Respected Costume In East Asian Etiquette. Photo by: vietnamnet

Áo Tấc – The Solemn and Ancient Elegance

The beauty of the Vietnamese Ao Tac. Photo by: duyenangvietnam

Áo Tấc (also known as Áo Ngũ Thân) is a traditional Vietnamese garment deeply rooted in the country’s feudal history, particularly prominent before and during the Nguyễn dynasty.

Worn by both men and women, Áo Tấc is known for its standing collar, wide body, and long, flowing sleeves that often extend past the hands, creating a graceful, dignified silhouette. The robe typically reaches the ankles, reflecting the formal, modest aesthetic of the time.

Ao Tac – The Revival of Vietnamese Traditional Costumes Photo by: bbcosplay

The name “Áo Ngũ Thân” (literally, “five-panel garment”) carries two traditional interpretations:

1. Symbolism of Filial Piety: The robe’s front and back are each made from two fabric panels, representing the “tứ thân phụ mẫu” (four parental figures) – often interpreted as Heaven, Earth, and one’s parents – joined by a central seam called trung phùng. An additional inner panel represents the individual wearing the garment. In Eastern thought, this construction signifies that a person is always nurtured and protected by their origins. Thus, wearing the Áo Tấc serves as a symbolic reminder of filial piety and gratitude toward one’s elders.
2. Five Elements and Five Virtues: Another interpretation refers to the robe being constructed from five distinct panels, symbolizing the Five Constant Virtues in Confucianism – Humanity, Righteousness, Propriety, Wisdom, and Faith – as well as the Five Elements of Eastern philosophy – Metal, Wood, Water, Fire, and Earth. This reflects the wearer’s aspiration for inner harmony and alignment with the universe.

Áo Tấc is typically worn with long pants, and complemented by a khăn đóng (traditional turban) for men or a khăn lươn (scarf-style headdress) for women. For a more structured silhouette, it is often layered over an inner five-panel shirt (áo ngũ thân lót). Final touches include traditional accessories such as badge pendants (for men), or jade jewelry, necklaces, and bracelets (for women), completing this timeless and elegant ensemble.

Áo Bà Ba –  The Rustic Touch of Southern Vietnam

Ao Ba Ba – Going down the memory lane of the old South.

Photo by: banquanlykhudulichjquocgiaNuiSam

Áo Bà Ba is a beloved traditional outfit of Southern Vietnam, worn by both men and women, but most iconically associated with Southern women. With its understated elegance, the áo evokes images of the Mekong Delta, where life flows gently like the rivers, and beauty lies in simplicity.

This garment features a collarless design, side slits at the hips, and often includes two functional front pockets. It’s typically worn with loose, wide-legged trousers, and mixed with khăn rằn (Southern Scarf), offering both comfort and ease of movement, ideal for the hot, humid climate of the South.

Ben Tre girls in gentle Ao Ba Ba

Photo by: tapchidientuvanhoavaphattrien

Áo Bà Ba is usually made from lightweight, breathable fabrics such as silk, kate, or soft cotton. It comes in a range of colors, from classic tones like black and white to vibrant shades that reflect the joyful spirit of countryside life.

More than just daily wear, Áo Bà Ba is a symbol of the Southern Vietnamese woman’s resilience and grace – humble yet strong, practical yet full of quiet charm. It brings to mind images of lush green rice paddies, narrow boats drifting through winding canals, and the peaceful rhythm of rural life.

Today, Áo Bà Ba remains a staple in the Mekong Delta region. It’s commonly worn at home, to the market, during festive gatherings, or even as a modern take on traditional fashion. Its enduring popularity speaks to its timeless design and deep cultural connection.

The Ao Ba Ba dress makes women become gentle and dignified. Photo by:vietgiaitri

The simple, familiar yet sophisticated features of a girl in ao ba ba

Photo by: missaodai

Charmingly modernized Ao Ba Ba for ladies to wear on Tet Photo by: Khan KMO

From the noble grace of Áo Nhật Bình to the rustic charm of Áo Bà Ba, each traditional costume tells a story of heritage, identity, and the enduring beauty of Vietnamese culture. These garments are more than fabric; they’re living reflections of the people, values, and traditions that shape Vietnam across generations.

At My Vietnam Tours, we believe cultural discovery is at the heart of meaningful travel. Whether you’re visiting bustling cities, ancient temples, or remote villages, these iconic costumes offer a beautiful lens through which to understand Vietnam’s diverse history and soul.

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